Manual Engine Control
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What sets an experienced pilot apart from a novice? Not just the number of battles and kills: a seasoned virtual pilot understands how an aircraft’s systems work and when to “tweak” each one to squeeze out the full 100% from the machine. You have manual control of propeller pitch (RPM), coolant and oil radiator flaps, fuel mixture, and the altitude corrector, as well as supercharger gear selection and turbocharger control. These are tools that let you hold combat power longer without overheating, climb more efficiently, and keep your speed where automation tends to play it safe. This is especially noticeable in dogfights and prolonged climbs, which are situations where a pilot with MEC still has a couple of moves left.[/p]![]()
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Use the multi‑function radial menu to activate the MEC[/p][h2]Blade angle and propeller RPM control[/h2][p]Propeller pitch sets how “heavy” the blades are in the airstream. Fine pitch makes the prop “light,” RPM rises, and low-speed thrust is higher. Coarse pitch makes the prop “heavier,” RPM drops, but efficiency at high speed increases.[/p][p]On aircraft with a propeller governor (constant-speed unit, CSU), the pitch/RPM axis sets the target engine RPM, and the governor adjusts blade angle to hold that RPM. On aircraft without a governor but with a variable‑pitch propeller, the same axis in the game changes blade angle directly, and RPM is a consequence of throttle setting and airspeed. The Bf 109 in “automatic prop pitch” mode holds RPM on its own; in manual mode the automation is disabled and that same axis sets blade angle directly, as on a variable‑pitch prop without a governor.[/p][p]On most fighters, MEC lets you keep pitch around 90–100% for takeoff and combat, while for cruising and long dives, it’s beneficial to bring it down to about 70–85%. That way, RPM won’t run away, and the engine will run cooler and burn less fuel.[/p][p]There are important nuances by aircraft family. On the Yak-3 and Yak-9T with VK-105 engines, the propeller governor (CSU) is hydraulically actuated and responds with a slight delay. Snapping the throttle open with the governor set to 100% easily causes an RPM overshoot and subsequent damage. The correct technique is: for takeoff, first set the governor a bit lower (about 70–80%), smoothly advance throttle to 100%, wait for RPM to stabilize, and only then bring the governor up to the 100% combat. The same trick helps after idle throttle in a dive. First add power smoothly with a moderate governor setting, then return to the combat value.[/p][p]The Bf 109 F-4 has an automatic prop governor. It does an excellent job, and we don’t recommend turning it off without experience, as the risk of overspeeding the prop at full throttle is too high. On the Fw 190 A-4, the Kommandogerät system automates the prop and several related parameters even further. With MEC, you’re essentially watching temperatures and power rather than “twisting blade angle.”[/p][p]American aircraft with conventional props like the P-40E and the carrier-based SBD-3 like high RPM in combat and climb, but benefit from coarsening the prop in cruise. A pitch around 75–85% lowers RPM, leaving thermal headroom for sudden emergency power (WEP). One more tactic to remember is with the throttle reduced and pitch increased, the prop can act as an effective air brake. On fast German aircraft this effect is especially strong, but with manual pitch even a small mistake at high speed can damage the engine. Use this deliberately and with care.[/p][h2]Supercharger and turbocharger[/h2][p]As you climb, the air gets thinner and without boost the engine “suffocates.” A mechanical supercharger fixes this via a gear-driven compressor; on many piston aircraft it has two speeds. The rule is simple: to switch to high gear when you see a noticeable drop in boost pressure and thrust, watch the boost/manifold pressure gauge and choose the setting that gives higher pressure at your current altitude. On Yaks with the VK-105 engine in the game, the switch point is usually around 1.9–2.0 km; below that the low gear is better, above it the high gear is. The main thing is to remember to switch back to low gear when you descend again, because at low altitude the “second gear” only robs you of power.[/p][p]Turbocharging is a different story. The P-47D-22-RE uses a turbocharger with automatic control, which helps the Thunderbolt keep excellent performance at altitude. Here, manual meddling is more often harmful, but it’s enough to watch oil temperature and avoid prolonged WEP. On the Typhoon Mk Ib/L, a classic two-stage supercharger is paired with a powerful engine. Here, it’s especially important to keep a close eye on the boost gauge, as the correct gear for the altitude gives a noticeable gain in acceleration and climb.[/p][h2]Radiators[/h2][p]![]()
[/p][p]Open radiator flaps give you cooling but steal speed. Coolant and oil need different handling. Coolant is more inert and prefers steady airflow, while oil reacts faster to load and can suffer a pressure drop when overheated. A universal principle during a long climb is to not hesitate to keep the radiators 80–100% open, especially in hot conditions (yes, locations affect temperature too); before a battle, approach with the engine already cooled and close the flaps just enough to avoid entering the red zone. If the temperature indicator on your tablet moves into the yellow–orange area, that’s normal for combat, but a flashing red indicator means it’s time to add cooling immediately.[/p]![]()
Judging by the black smoke, this Bf 110 has overheated its engines and won’t get far.[/p][h2]Mixture and altitude corrector[/h2][p]Mixture determines how much fuel and air reach the cylinders. Down low, engines like a rich mixture: easier starts, more stable running, and higher instantaneous thrust. As altitude increases there’s less air, and to avoid “drowning the engine in fuel,” you lean the mixture. In-game it’s convenient to think in percentages. 60% is a good all-purpose setpoint, but it’s better to squeeze out efficiency by fine-tuning for engine type and altitude.[/p][p]VK-105 engines on the Yak-3 and Yak-9T respond especially well to this. At 6–8 km they often pull better with mixture around 40–50%, whereas down low and at medium altitudes it’s sensible to hold 55–65% and increase before an aggressive acceleration. American aircraft like the P-47D-22-RE and even the simpler P-40E-1 reward careful mixture management. At medium altitudes the Thunderbolt performs better at 70–80%, and the trusty Warhawk is noticeably livelier down low on a rich mixture and recovers faster after short bursts of WEP. On some aircraft (e.g., certain German types), the mixture is automated and may be unavailable under MEC. That’s normal; fly by boost and temperature.[/p][p]![]()
[/p][h2]Conclusion[/h2][p]Manual Engine Control isn’t a “secret advantage,” but a tool automation lacks. It doesn’t know whether you’re about to get into a hot fight, go on the chase, or have time to cool the engine before the engagement. By taking control, you tune the aircraft to your intent, reinforcing strategy and tactics and squeezing a hundred percent out of the machine, and even a bit more. MEC isn’t about memorizing magic numbers, it’s about getting used to scanning the gauges and feeling what your specific aircraft wants right now.[/p][hr][/hr][p]If you’re an experienced Aces of Thunder pilot, share with newcomers how you set prop pitch, mixture, and radiators. The more practice and tips we collect, the faster the community will learn to fly not only beautifully, but also with solid technique. Safe flights and cool engines![/p]
[p]In this article, we’ll go over the key systems of Manual Engine Control (MEC) in Aces of Thunder, offer practical aircraft-specific tips, and warn about common pitfalls that can make your engine quit before your opponents even have to try.[/p][h2]How to use Manual Engine Control[/h2][p]On the pilot’s tablet, open the Controls menu and scroll to the Engine category: these are your main MEC settings. [/p][p]
- [p]Red: the MEC master switch — turns manual engine control on or off as a whole.[/p]
- [p]Green: toggles for individual automations (e.g., prop pitch, radiators). Note: if a given aircraft historically lacked a propeller governor or automatic radiator flaps, then with MEC enabled those systems are manual-only, and there won’t be an automatic mode for them.[/p]
- [p]Blue: axis bindings (throttle, prop pitch/RPM, mixture, radiators). We recommend assigning these to physical axes on your joystick/throttle/knobs. If you use a keyboard, be sure to enable relative control: instead of jumping from 0 to 100%, you’ll change a parameter in small steps (e.g., by 1–5%), which is critical for precise control of thrust and temperatures. That way, pitch, mixture, and radiators are adjusted with “fine” controls rather than crude toggles.[/p]
[p]In a VR headset with controllers, when MEC is enabled you can use your hands to operate the radiator, mixture, and propeller levers in the cockpit.[/p][p]
[p]Tip: without pulling the throttle back, reduce RPM by 100–300. The thrust will hardly drop, but heat output will fall, letting you close the radiators more and sustain combat power longer while preserving speed and engine life in a chase or duel.[/p][p]